Matt Reddin
22/09/2024
It's a curious thing that a town in the Grampians with a population of 454 could have such a place to call its own. Unassuming from the outside, and (until such time as the food actually hits your table) the inside as well, the Bunyip Hotel provides not only the classic atmosphere of a standard Australian pub (locals were rowdily enjoying the footy in the front bar), but the food is exquisite. I was lucky enough to sample close to a dozen of the meals on their board of fare (its an experience best shared with multiple people), with each dish seemingly out-impressing the last. There were croquettes - incredible. Taramasalata - astonishing. Smoked salmon - amazing. Mussels - phenomenal. Cabbage. For the love of Pete ... the cabbage. Who would have thought you could make cabbage a high-end gourmet item? So much extraordinary food to enjoy. And then we were served the lemon tart for dessert, which was of a quality that quite frankly made me depressed - how one who occasionally enjoys making such things could ever return to it knowing that the Bunyip can make it so beautifully, so subtly, with such delicacy. Each new course made me swear (softly), as each one had such an astonishing depth of flavour. I don't know if there's reasons to go to Cavendish other than this pub and its extraordinary restaurant, but the food at the Bunyip makes it not only the best thing about the town, but something truly remarkable to seek out in the entire Grampians region. If not Victoria. Or the nation. The food was the finest I think I have ever tasted anywhere in the world, and it's not hyperbole to say that James Campbell sits among the finest chefs in Australia.