Jackie McMillan
03/10/2024
Smearing sourdough crumpets with chicken fat butter dotted with crisp nodules of skin is just what I want to be doing in a British-themed gastropub. They slide down a treat with a pretty pint of Akasha Super Chill Pacific Ale ($11) that tastes flowery from its all-Australian hop flowers. We're seated in Winstons in the recently updated rear section of The Nag's Head hotel: a quaint corner boozer in Glebe that's been operating since 1836. The seven dish menu ($85/person) is the work of chef Nelly Robinson, who opened his upmarket Nel. in Surry Hills a decade ago.
While Nel. is contemporary, at Winstons the eating is more nostalgic. The snacks include a Scotch egg spruced up with curried lamb mince wrapped around a mostly-set quail egg with a good tingle of spice, and a coronation chicken sanga with curried egg mayo. The latter eats like proper British finger food you'd be happy to serve at a party at your digs. I'm less enamoured with the milk-poached prawn tart in charcoal pastry, because the Avruga 'caviar' smells fishy from herring without any fish roe. However the vividly green pea soup dotted with quail egg, herb oil, leek fritters and fox flowers just wanted for someone to heat the plate on a night that felt more like the return of winter than the start of spring.
With some disparity between the wine prices listed on the menu and what was displayed online we unnecessarily climbed up in price point to find a markup that felt fair. The 2022 Stefano Lubiana Chardonnay ($130) was worth the extra spend, elegant enough for lighter dishes like the pea soup, but stretching all the way to the beef Wellington, which, made on beef cheeks with peppercorn sauce poured at the table, kind of ate more like a beef'n'pepper pie. A spike of ginger in the 'melting ginger parkin' wasn't enough to convince me I wasn't eating a chocolate lava cake albeit with fancy trimmings like jersey milk and honey parfait and butterscotch sauce poured in situ. Service is youthful but well-intentioned.